Proper shoe care extends the life of your shoes, preserves their shape, and enhances the natural character of the materials. At Melvin & Hamilton, we recommend cleaning, conditioning, polishing, and storing your shoes according to the specific leather or material.
Below, you will find care instructions for each material type. If your shoes combine different materials, apply the appropriate care method to each one individually.
How to Care for Different Leather Types
CARE ROUTINE
SMOOTH LEATHER
Smooth leather is the most common type of shoe leather and benefits from regular care to maintain its flexibility, colour and shine.
- Remove dust and dirt with a soft brush or cloth.
- Clean and nourish the leather using a nourishing milk, then apply a coloured shoe cream to revive colour and keep the leather supple.
- Gently polish using a soft brush or glove to enhance the natural shine.
Avoid:
- Excessive wax build-up
- Alcohol-based or aggressive cleaning products
- Drying shoes near direct heat sources
CARE ROUTINE
SUEDE LEATHER
Suede is a soft, velvety leather with an open texture that requires delicate care to preserve its depth and finish.
- Brush gently with a suede brush to remove dust and restore the nap.
- For marks, use a suede eraser or a lightly damp brush with mild soap, applying minimal moisture.
- Allow shoes to air-dry naturally if wet, away from direct heat, and insert cedar trees to maintain shape.
Avoid:
- Heavy rain or prolonged moisture
- Wax or traditional polish
- Grease-based treatments
- Alcohol-based sprays
CARE ROUTINE
WOVEN LEATHER
Woven leather features interlaced strips of leather that require careful cleaning to protect both the surface and the gaps between the weave.
- Brush gently to remove dust and debris from between the weaves.
- Clean and nourish the leather using a nourishing milk, then apply a small amount of coloured shoe cream, avoiding excess product in the gaps.
- Allow the product to absorb, then gently polish using a soft brush or glove to enhance the natural shine.
Avoid:
- Soaking or excessive moisture
- Heavy wax build-up
- Alcohol-based sprays
- Product accumulation between the weave
CARE ROUTINE
HAIRON LEATHER
Hair-on leather is a delicate material that preserves the natural hair layer of the hide. Gentle care maintains its texture and refined appearance.
- Brush softly with a natural-bristle brush, always following the direction of the hair.
- Insert cedar trees after wearing to preserve shape and absorb moisture.
- Store in a dry, well-ventilated space away from humidity and prolonged pressure.
Avoid:
- Wax or shoe polish
- Grease-based products
- Alcohol-based sprays
- Excess moisture or friction
CARE ROUTINE
TEXTILE
Textile materials require gentle maintenance to preserve their texture, colour and structure.
- Brush off dust with a soft brush or cloth.
- If needed, wipe gently with a slightly damp cloth and mild soap, using minimal moisture.
- Allow to air-dry naturally away from direct heat. A protective waterproofing spray designed for delicate materials may help protect against moisture and stains.
Avoid:
- Excessive water or soaking
- Direct heat while drying
- Alcohol-based or harsh chemical sprays
CARE ROUTINE
PATENT LEATHER
Patent leather features a glossy, coated surface that requires gentle maintenance to preserve its shine.
- Wipe with a soft cloth to remove dust and fingerprints, then buff lightly with a clean cloth to restore shine.
- Insert cedar trees after wearing to maintain shape and absorb moisture.
- Store in a dry space away from humidity and direct light to prevent dullness or surface damage.
Avoid:
- Heavy rain or prolonged moisture
- Alcohol-based sprays
- Abrasive or aggressive cleaning products
- Friction that may cause scratches
CARE ROUTINE
BRUSHED LEATHER
Brushed leather has a softly textured surface that should be cleaned gently to preserve its distinctive finish.
- Remove dust regularly with a soft cloth or a gentle brush.
- Use cedar shoe trees after wearing to maintain the shape and absorb moisture.
- Store in a dry, well-ventilated space to protect the brushed surface.
Avoid:
- Nourishing cream, wax or traditional polish
- Excessive friction or pressure on the surface
- Alcohol-based sprays
CARE ROUTINE
EMBOSSED LEATHER
Embossed leather features a textured pattern pressed into the surface and requires gentle care to preserve its definition.
- Wipe with a soft, slightly damp cloth to remove dust, then dry with a clean cloth.
- Apply a small amount of nourishing cream to keep the leather supple, avoiding excess product in the embossed texture.
- Insert cedar shoe trees after wearing to maintain shape and absorb moisture.
Avoid:
- Heavy wax build-up
- Excess product in the embossed pattern
- Alcohol-based sprays
Essential Shoe Care Products
Common Shoe Care Mistakes
Even high-quality leather shoes can deteriorate quickly if they are not cared for properly. Avoiding a few common mistakes can help preserve the leather and extend the life of your shoes.
1. Drying shoes near direct heat
Never place wet shoes near a radiator, heater, or direct sunlight. High heat can dry out the leather and cause it to crack. Allow shoes to air-dry naturally and insert shoe trees to help maintain their shape.
2. Wearing the same pair every day
Leather shoes need time to rest and release moisture after wear. Wearing the same pair daily can accelerate wear and damage the leather.
Tip: Rotate between at least two pairs to allow proper drying.
3. Skipping regular conditioning
Leather can dry out over time if it is not nourished. Apply a nourishing shoe cream regularly to keep the leather supple and prevent cracking.
4. Using the wrong products
Products such as wax, grease, or alcohol-based sprays can damage certain materials like suede, patent leather, or hair-on leather. Always use care products suitable for the specific leather type.
5. Storing shoes in humid or closed spaces
Humidity can damage leather and encourage mould growth. Store shoes in a dry, ventilated place and use cedar shoe trees to help absorb moisture.
FAQ
How often should you polish leather shoes?
Leather shoes should generally be polished every 5–10 wears, depending on how often they are used and the weather conditions. Regular conditioning keeps the leather supple and prevents drying or cracking.
Recommended routine
✔ Frequent wear: polish every 2 weeks
✔ Occasional wear: polish once per month
✔ After rain exposure: clean and condition once dry
Using a nourishing cream between polishes helps maintain the leather’s flexibility and natural shine.
Read our complete guide on how to polish your leather shoes.
Will leather shoes stretch over time?
Yes. Genuine leather naturally adapts to the shape of your foot with wear. Most leather shoes will stretch slightly — usually in width rather than length — and become more comfortable after the first few wears.
This adjustment happens gradually as the leather softens and molds to your foot.
Tips for breaking in leather shoes
✔ Wear them for short periods at first
✔ Use cedar shoe trees to help the leather relax and maintain shape
✔ Apply a nourishing leather cream to keep the material supple
Read our complete guide on how to soften leather shoes.
Can I wear leather shoes in the rain or snow?
Leather is a natural material and is sensitive to moisture. Exposure to rain, snow or road salt may damage the leather and alter its appearance.
Moisture and salt can cause:
- stains or discoloration
- drying of the leather
- cracking over time
Our advice
✔ Avoid prolonged exposure to rain or snow
✔ Let shoes dry naturally away from heat
✔ Apply nourishing leather care regularly
Damage caused by weather exposure is considered normal wear and is typically not covered by warranty.
Are the insoles removable?
Removable insoles are available on all Melvin & Hamilton sneakers, boat shoes and Adley loafers. For other models, the insoles are generally fixed as part of the shoe’s construction.
If you wear orthopaedic insoles, we recommend checking the product specifications on each model to confirm whether the insole can be removed.
Tip
Removable insoles allow you to:
- replace them with orthopaedic insoles
- improve comfort and support
- increase ventilation inside the shoe
Leather soles feel slippery — should I add a rubber sole protector?
New leather soles can feel slippery at first because the leather surface is still smooth. This is normal.
We recommend wearing the shoes 5-10 times to allow the sole to naturally roughen through use.
If you prefer additional grip, a cobbler can add a thin rubber sole protector (also called a protective half sole) without affecting the shoe’s structure. Please note that modifications made by third parties may affect warranty coverage on the sole.
Why do leather shoes crease on the upper after the first wear?
Small creases on the upper leather are completely normal. These are known as comfort creases and appear as the leather flexes while walking.
High-quality leather naturally develops these creases as it adapts to the movement of the foot.
They are not a defect but a normal characteristic of genuine leather shoes.
Tip
Using cedar shoe trees after wearing helps smooth the leather and reduce the appearance of creases.
What is vegetable-tanned leather and how should it be cared for?
Vegetable tanning is a traditional leather-tanning method that uses natural tannins from plants such as bark, leaves, and wood instead of synthetic chromium salts. This process gives leather a rich character and allows it to develop a unique patina over time.
Because it uses plant-based tannins, vegetable-tanned leather is often considered more environmentally friendly and gentler for skin contact than chrome-tanned leather.
Vegetable-tanned leather is more sensitive to:
- sunlight
- moisture
- stains
Care tips
✔ Avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight
✔ Protect from rain and stains
✔ Condition regularly with a nourishing cream
With proper care, vegetable-tanned leather gradually develops a beautiful natural patina that makes each pair unique.
Are Melvin & Hamilton shoes handmade?
Melvin & Hamilton shoes combine traditional craftsmanship with modern production techniques. Each model is carefully designed and produced using high-quality leather selected for its durability and character.
Many finishing steps are performed by hand, including colouring and patina effects that create the brand’s distinctive shades. These hand-applied finishes give each pair subtle variations in tone and depth, making every shoe unique.
The brand also prioritises responsible materials and craftsmanship. For many models, vegetable-tanned leather is used as it relies on natural tannins and is considered more respectful for both the environment and health.
This combination of craftsmanship, careful material selection and hand-finished details ensures that Melvin & Hamilton shoes are both distinctive and durable.
My shoes squeak when I walk. What can I do?
A squeaking sound is usually caused by friction between two materials, such as new leather parts or the tongue rubbing against the upper.
In most cases the noise disappears after a few wears.
Simple solutions
✔ Apply a small amount of talcum powder between the friction areas
✔ Use a small amount of leather conditioner on the rubbing surface
✔ Ensure the shoe is properly laced and adjusted
How long do quality leather shoes last?
High-quality leather shoes can last many years, and often more than a decade, when they are properly cared for. Their lifespan depends on how often they are worn, how well they are maintained, and whether worn soles are repaired when needed.
Simple habits such as regular cleaning, alternating between pairs, and using shoe trees can significantly extend the life of your shoes.
✔ Rotate between pairs to let shoes rest
✔ Use cedar shoe trees after each wear
✔ Clean and nourish the leather regularly
Discover more tips to extend the life of your shoes in our guide.
Do I need shoe trees for leather shoes?
Shoe trees are not strictly required, but they are strongly recommended if you want to preserve the shape and condition of your leather shoes. They help smooth creases, maintain the structure of the shoe, and absorb moisture after wear.
Cedar shoe trees are particularly effective because the wood naturally absorbs moisture and helps ventilate the leather.
Benefits of shoe trees
✔ Maintain the original shape of the shoe
✔ Reduce creasing in the leather
✔ Absorb moisture after wearing
✔ Extend the lifespan of the shoe
Learn more about why shoe trees are essential for leather shoes.
How should I store leather shoes?
Leather shoes should be stored in a dry, well-ventilated place away from humidity, direct sunlight, and heat sources. Proper storage helps maintain the leather’s condition and preserve the shoe’s shape.
Storage tips
✔ Insert cedar shoe trees after wearing
✔ Store shoes in dust bags or their original box
✔ Keep them in a dry, cool place
✔ Avoid stacking shoes or exposing them to light
Read our complete guide on how to store your shoes properly.
How can I remove scratches or scuffs from leather shoes?
Minor scratches and scuffs on leather shoes can often be improved at home with simple care. In many cases, cleaning the leather and applying a nourishing shoe cream helps reduce or hide superficial marks.
A typical routine includes:
- Clean the leather to remove dust and dirt.
- Apply a nourishing shoe cream to moisturise the leather and soften the scratch.
- Use a colour-matching cream to blend the mark if needed.
- Polish lightly with a brush or cloth to restore shine.
These steps help smooth the leather surface and make scratches less visible.
Read our complete guide on how to remove scratches and scuffs from leather shoes.
Tip
Treat the entire shoe rather than only the scratched area to maintain an even colour and finish.
